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A Much-Maligned Town - extracts
In the evening I preached at Reading. How many years were we beating the
air at this town? Stretching out our hands to a people stupid as oxen!
But it is not so at present. That generation is passed away, and their
children are of a more excellent spirit.
John Wesley: Journal, 1777
Distant 39 miles from London, and delightfully situated on a general ascent
from the Thames, and washed by the Kennet, which flows nearly through
the centre in several streams, and falls into the prince of British rivers,
about a furlong below the town. The houses are chiefly built of brick,
well built, and commodious; and the streets are spaciously and handsomely
paved. An air of gentility is thrown over the place; and there is an elegant
sociability in the manners of its inhabitants, which is irresistibly attractive
to strangers. Hence villas are constantly rising in its vicinity; nor
is this to be wondered at, as there is not a country town in the kingdom
that unites so many charms and advantages to persons of independent fortune,
and cultivated minds.
William Fordyce Mavor: General View of the Agriculture of Berkshire, 1809
The rowing down from Oxford to Reading, on the Thames, is more charming
than I can describe in words. I rowed down last June, through miles upon
miles of water-lilies, lying on the water close together, like a fairy
pavement. But once arrived in Reading the enchantment is gone. A soporific
atmosphere takes command, brought about by enervation, which in turn is
ordered by the tranquillity of the river as it drains away with it the
energies of the people. It is not unlike a blood-letting, and, like that
device, probably drains away with it many of the common fluxes of illness,
for I never saw fewer people ill or in any way upset.
Charles Dickens: letter to Angela Burdett-Coutts, c1843
During that day and for many days afterwards he talked of nothing but
Reading Prison and it had already become for him a sort of enchanted castle
of which Major Nelson was the presiding fairy. The hideous machicolated
turrets were already turned into minarets, the very warders into benevolent
Mamelukes and we ourselves into Paladins welcoming Coeur de Lion after
his captivity…
Oscar Wilde in Dieppe, 1897, reported by Robert Ross, quoted in Selected
Letters of Oscar Wilde, edited by Rupert Hart-Davis, 1979
Very little of the old town remains and the new commercial buildings are
depressing when they are not actually unpleasant to the eye. Over the
suburbs there has spread a red rash of buildings, mostly compounded of
vulgar vagaries. It’s not too much to say that Reading serves as
a compendium of what to avoid.
Country Life, 1909
Caversham, just below, is Reading’s well-to-do residential suburb.
Reading as a go-ahead industrial town – rather grimly so for the
South country – is awful in bits, but why anyone should prefer to
live at Caversham I cannot think. A spiritual slum, full of the worst
kind of mental squalor. Rows of pretentiously bad houses stand each in
too much ground to be neighbourly, and not enough to give privacy. Everywhere,
in the more prosperous streets, is the feeling that appearances are being
kept up by gallant and unrewarding effort, on money that could give the
owners a riotous good time in a genuine Victorian villa, instead of a
pseudo-timbered neo-Georgian mansion, for which it is not quite enough.
In the smaller roads, behind well-laundered net curtains, women’s
lives are sacrificed to the semi-detached gods – keeping one servant
contented without enough assistance, and the children from playing with
the noisy ones down the road.
E Arnot Robertson: Thames Portrait, 1937
People avoid Reading but even the streets of terracotta shops and houses
in the centre of town have a good deal to be said for them when you know
them in different lights. A setting sun with a slight evening mist, or
a damp day during open weather in February or March gives them an air
that separates Reading in character from every other south country town.
The washable weather-resisting surface that will hardly change with centuries
of wear, changes its look constantly with the different lights of different
days, and has plenty of delights to satisfy an unprejudiced eye.
John Piper, c1939, quoted in Piper’s Places, 1983
Reading, Berkshire, where I live (though I am not a Readingensian) is
an overcrowded industrial town of, at the time of writing, some hundred
and twenty-five thousand people. The building of the M4 motorway has brought
London within a possible forty minutes’ fast driving – always
assuming you can extricate yourself from the traffic muddles of the town
centre and strike the motorway before you are shrivelled to a bunch of
frustrations – and this possibility has encouraged a great many
industrialists to hive their offices and factories off from London’s
great wen and attach them to Reading’s smaller one; so the great
and the small will soon be joined by the carcinoma of twentieth-century
conurbation. The town is administratively half-baked, artistically null,
and, apart from a very few vistas of decrepit but otherwise pleasing eighteenth-century
houses, architecturally hideous. (Even that enthusiastic proponent of
Victorian design Mr John Betjeman is said to have blenched and asked for
a restorative glass on seeing the town hall for the first time.)
Alan Wykes: An Eye on the Thames, 1966
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